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Bread & Butter Reaps New-Format Benefits

Norma Quinto / Women’s Wear Daily /

A more tightly edited Bread & Butter market here garnered generally positive reactions from exhibitors and retailers, who seized upon sporadic signs of economic improvement to boost their buying.

B&B, which ended its three day run at the Tempelhof Airport Jan. 18, eliminated its Temple of Denim section, dividing the show more along the lines of lifestyle segments and raising the fashion bar for exhibitors.

“The streets are the best evidence that the so-called monocultures of denim or rtw don’t work anymore,” Karl-Heinz Müller, chief executive officer of Bread & Butter, declared. Moreover, Müller said Bread & Butter “would like to add a high end women’s segment in the urban area” and is also considering a women’s “Upper Street” section. This may see the B&B layout revised again next season.

Bread & Butter’s moves to elevate the standards for exhibitor entry were well received.

“He [Müller] calls it the show ‘for selected brands’ and this is truly that,” remarked Tony Tonnaer, ceo of KOI Kings of Indigo, about his satisfaction with the new setup of the fair.

Last season KOI was in the Temple of Denim section and now was part of the L.O.C.K. segment, described in B&B literature as dedicated to “craftsmanship, expertise, precision work and the highest manufacturing standards,” paired with “love, passion and pride.” Organizers, who subtitled the area “116 Labels of Common Kin,” said the aim was to demonstrate that the brands in this section offered a concentrated trading platform with authentic international exhibitors, starting with denim as a base and including shoes, accessories, sportswear and outerwear.

“If I look at the stores where we sell and I look at the brands around me here, it all makes sense,” Tonnaer said. “For us it is quite a good environment.”

Jason Denham, ceo of Denham the Jeanmaker, explained that Müller and his team made it easy for retailers to see brands not for the “names” as much as for their quality and price category appropriate for their respective stores.

“Karl-Heinz is the curator,” Denham said. “He knows how to bring brands together and showcase them, and [this season] it was clear.”